Prague to Krakow
Well its day three on the journey from Eastern Europe through to Asia and so far so good. Have just checked into a lovely hostel in Krakow called “Goodbye Lenin”. Very near the central train station, super clean, very friendly staff, a big bar with loads of vodka and beer, and a dorm room to myself. There are not that many backpackers at this time of year so the chances are good that you will have plenty of options re accomodation. Beer in hand and now ready to recount the start of the trip.
Flew out to Prague on the Easyjet flight (Stellios I expect a cheque in the post old boy!) from London Gatwick on Saturday 5 Jan. A friend of mine in JHB had always raved about the beauty of the city and it seemed appropriate to start here as it had been on my “to do” list for some time. After landing safely in Prague , a short bus journey into the centre and then out on a tram to “The Boathouse Hostel”. Had seen this hostel reviewed on the internet and it looked very good. Basically an old rowing boathouse that had been converted in to sleeping accomodation which sits on the banks of the Vltava River. Was wlcomed at the door by Helena and Vera who have run the hostel for the last 16 years. A rowdy bunch of locals were getting stuck into the Starapromen downstairs so I decided not to draw attention to myself and head back to Prague to check out the city at night. I subsequently discovered that it was a farewell party for some of the river police and these boys (and ladies) ended up singing, swaying and dancing until 3am in the morning! Did the usual sightseing and getting a general idea of what the city had to offer….really beautiful place at night. Dinner consisted of the obligatory czech sausages which are really tasty and then it was back to base to get some shut eye. Well that was the plan. Unfortunately I had to share with the Spanish freight train. This guy was snoring so loudly that it took me close on two hours to fall asleep. You may as well have left me out on a runway at Heathrow in order to mirror the noises coming out of Paco’s nostrils and mouth. Good luck to the lucky lady that settles down with him one day!
The next morning I felt as fresh as a deportee waiting to slip under a train/bus at Calais….what a sh*te nights sleep! What with the czech drinking team and the freight train all in a synchronised session of ear bursting rapture, there was no chance of me sleeping like a log. Nothing a good cup of coffee could not sort out though and the order was for two extra strong. One thing about Vera and Helena is that they certainly treat you well and look after all your needs. Nothing too much trouble for them and frankly you can pay top dollar for that in certain hotels. This was merely two old ducks being kind at heart and making the stay enjoyable.
There had been overnight snow in Prague and this was great for me to witness. The locals normally don’t see snow in January and this was a treat. All the guidebooks dictate that Prague is stunning with a snow covered layer. Off I headed with layer upon layer upon layer of warm clothes and the camera in tow. The tram system is super efficient here and London can take a leaf out of this book on how to have a great transport system. Back in the heart of Prague within 15 minutes and proceeded to view the Old Jewish Quarter, Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, the National Theatre, loads of churches, spires and superb architecture around every corner. Really beautiful city and the snow kept falling throughout the day. Ordered the obligatory czech cuisine of pork and beef ghoulash for lunch (basically a stwe served on either rice or potatos)….very tasty and filling.
After a walk along the icy embankment of the river, it was off to the T Mobile arena in the north of town to watch an ice hockey match. Something I had always wanted to do. While over in Vancouver the season had been suspended so never got the chance. Sparta Prague (the national champions in 2007) were hosting and all the hype and glitz of an American sporting event were on show. Big screens floating above the ice and the crowd of around 8,000 were treated to a great game which Sparta won 5-2. Never realised how many changes occur during a game ….seems similiar to American football with the offensive and defensive benches. Great skills and unbelievable balance on the ice. Super night’s entertainment and the cheerleaders were pretty special as well! Tram back to the hostel in readiness for round 2 with the human lawnmower! It lasted 20 minutes and I was soon in another room all by myself..eventually some shuteye!
Two enjoyable days in Prague has flown by quickly and the next leg of the journey involved a 7 hour train ride over the Polish border to Krakow. Very comfortable InterCity train with enclosed apartments and views of the countryside from both sides of the train. Within half an hour of leaving Prague the countryside turned into an array of vast snow covered fields with plenty of deer, rabbits, eagles and the occassional wolf on the horizon.As the sun slowly starting fading, the fields were replaced with huge pine trees flanking us for the rest of the journey. Really enjoyable to see this winter wonderland unfolding and can only be filled with excitement for the forthcoming trip through Russia and Siberia. The great thing about travelling by train is the peace that you get on board especially on such long journeys. Allows you time to loom out the window and reflect. Currently reading an interesting book by Paul Theroux entitled “Dark Star Safari”….and he talks about the adventure and freedom of travel. Have to agree that it opens one’s eyes up to what is around you and gives you a sense of appreciation to how simple life is. Its also a great escape from the virtues of mobile phones and all that technological overflow.
So three interesting days of travelling so far…..looking forward to the next 27 to come.
Hey Chief - sounds fantastic……just waiting for some stories from behind the red curtain…….so to speak. Hope there arent too many Ice Maidens
Bring back a russian bride for riggers
J
Comment by Smeets — January 18, 2008 @ 1:10 pm