Saturday afternoon and the living is easy. Its been another scorcher and I am now sitting in Bella’s guesthouse enjoying a Belikin beer and taking it easy. Reggae music in the background, the owner,s kids running around in the front yard and the sun starting to set. Currently on the island of Caye Caulker which is famous for its proximity to the Blue Hole, which is a world renowned diving spot full of sharks. As mentioned before there is no diving for me but have snorkelled on the reefs and its been great.

The past four days have involved plenty of travelling starting with the six hour bus drive down to the town of Chetumel, a few miles from the Belize/Mexico border. Nice bus journey but if you are ever in this part of the world take a sweater with you….they churn up the aircon and set the temperature at a level which an eskimo would struggle with! Onward on a local second class bus across the border and then on to the village of Orange Walk. Bumped into two Aussies, Damen and Ryan, whom I briefly chatted to at the airport leaving Havana. Joined by a Scot called Rob and we have been travelling together since Chetumel….nice to have the company and also makes organising group tours easier and cheaper.

The country of Belize is only the size of Wales and its been really easy and quick to travel here. Arrived in Orange Walk and booked into a really chilled out resort called the Lamanai River Resort. Great views of the river. Enjoyed a few drinks and local Belize cuisine (rice, stewed chicken and beans) with the owners and the most happy waitress ever. We called her Giggly #1……she just could not hold in a laugh while serving us! The cook arrived by bicycle and left with a simple wave later in the evening….all very comical. Boat trip down to the Lamanai ruins, 36 miles along the river, to view another Mayan masterpiece. Plenty of crocodiles and birds along the way. Very impressive ruins set in the heart of the jungle. Main temple ascended by most people on our tour. Not easy looking down from a considerable height! Stinking humid and plenty of water needed to be consumed. Plenty of interesting discussions by our informative guide on snake bite antidotes, jungle animals and the history of the ruins. Had a troop of howler monkeys look down at us the whole afternoon and they did not seemed bothered by our prescence.

Headed back to Orange Walk and just made it in time to reach the bus terminal and search for cover when the heavens opened. Boarded a bus to Belize City and arrived in the city just after 7pm. Found a really nice guest house near the ferry terminal called the Beachside Guest House. Greeted by two rather big local girls who we decided to call Giggly #2 and #3. They were laughing all the time and then went quiet when the season finale of Grays Anatomy came on tv. We decided that as they were bigger than the four of us combined that it was better to let them be. Rather venture onto the streets of the city and take that on.

Belize City is really depressing to say the least. The guide book mentioned this but I did not think it could be this bad. Tried to find a place to eat and everything seemed to be shut. Continuosly approached by beggers and crack dealers as we walked along dimly lit streets trying to find fuel for the body. Eventualy found the Dragon Inn which specialised in Chinese food. Strange how every place you go to in this world you seem to be guaranteed to find a Chinese restaurant. Had a good feed and then headed back to the guesthouse. Never been to New Orleans but from what I saw after Hurricane Katrina, the architecture here seems very familiar with big wooden houses perched on stilts and steel stairs leading to the street and yard below. Met a really fascinating old man who is from Zimbabwe bit grew up in Alexandra township in Johannesburg and now lives in Toronto. Very interesting listening to his take on how things were in South Africa back in the day.

Next day walked to the ferry terminal for the 8am crossing to Caye Caulker. Boat loaded with divers and people looking for a relaxing holiday. Housing, people and accomodation very similiar to the Carribean. Found accomodation at Bellas Guest House and after sorting out rooms, we headed off on a half day snorkel tour of three reefs in the area. Plenty of fish to be seen and enjoyed the amazing experience of swimming with a huge school of stingrays who kept on circling us snorkellers in an area called Manta/Shark alley. Their approach underwater was like a scene out of Star Wars where the armada of warships glide across space. Very impressive and amazing creatures.

Late afternoon kayak across the island…its only 600 metres wide and 7 miles in length…to catch the sunset. Evening entertainment at the local Sunset Disco which is next to our place of abode. Not much happening after 11pm (we were told it would be packed). Ended up being three gringos (Ryan, Damen and myself) along with two bar staff, four locals and two on duty policeman. Very bizarre but so far a great experience in Caye Caulker. Tonight its off to the local reggae bar which is supposedly full of voodoo…shall see if that is more upbeat than yesterday evening.

Next stop San Ignacio and a crossing of the Guatemala border.